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April 10, 2007

Springtime in Seattle

April is a fickle month in the Pacific Northwest. We'll go from having balmy 70-plus degree weather one day to wet and cold weather the next. And you can rarely count on the weather forecast; the weather can change drastically from one hour to the next. So it was a pleasant surprise to have one of those gorgeous warm days earlier this month, and the timing was perfect for a trip to the beach with some visiting friends.


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This shot was pure serendipity -- I was monkeying with the settings on my camera and got this picture completely by accident. I tried to get the effect again on purpose and just couldn't do it.

The rainy days are okay, too, as they provide plenty of incentive to stay indoors and do some knitting and spinnning when time allows. I've been having some fun playing with my birthday gift this year -- hubby got me a Greensleeves Lizzy Kate, something I've wanted since I first started spindling!


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I absolutely love it. So far I've plied some laceweight that I've been spinning up on my Bosworth Moosie and a Grafton FiberShip (I do so love that name), and it made plying from the two spindles a breeze! Plus I love that I ended up with a much longer length of yarn than I would have by winding onto a nostepinne and plying from two ends of the same ball.

Here's another project that I've picked up again. It has been on the back burner for awhile, but the Fairy Wonder Batt is back:


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It's being knit into a "Leaf Lace Shawl" and so far it's turning out really pretty. I can't wait to finish it!

March 28, 2007

It's been awhile.

I didn't know if I was going to come back to this. Life is busy. It is for everyone. I don't delude myself into thinking that anyone reads this, but it was never really meant for anyone else. Just a place to record some of the things that I do that I don't get to talk about much in real life. Things that don't fit in journals full of ink and personal ramblings. So I've missed it from time to time, and wanted to check in. To leave a sign of life, even if it's just a personal reminder. Things outside of my control (and sometimes within it) have kept me from doing many of the things that I love lately. But in bits and pieces, I have been working on a few things...


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There are a few more things, too. Things that I never managed to take pictures of, like a Shetland Triangle out of Lorna's Laces for an auction, and more than a few pairs of pants sewn for the little man. And there are things that I started but haven't finished yet, like this:


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And this:


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Bits and pieces; little things that help me to keep my sanity. Mostly to give away, some to keep, and all from the heart.

July 12, 2006

Little Hands

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I finally finished my son's fingerless mitts out of the handspun alpaca from this entry. They were actually a very quick knit -- probably two hours total from start to finish. But I finished one and neglected to finish the other until just recently. I guess there isn't much motivation when it's warm outside, but I know he'll be grateful for these come late fall. I had knit him some mittens last year, and he loved to wear them when his hands got cold but he didn't like not having his fingers free to pick up things or to clamber around on playground equipment. I think he'll like these much better.

I figured I'd include the pattern here in case anyone is interested in making child-sized fingerless mitts for their kiddos. So here goes:

Child's Fingerless Mitts


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SIZE: These children's fingerless mitts are quite stretchy and should fit most children between the ages of 5 and 9.

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YARN:: The example shown uses 75 yards of handspun alpaca at 9 wraps per inch (wpi). Commercial yarn substitutes could be any aran weight yarn, such as Mission Falls 1824 Superwash or Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran.

GAUGE: 4.5 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch

NEEDLES: Size 6 DPNs or whatever size is needed to get gauge. (This pattern can be knit using two circular needles, however specific instructions are given only for DPNs.)

ABBREVIATIONS:

PM - Place Marker
SM - Slip Marker
M1R - Increase 1 by slipping needle into the bar between two stitches from back to front.
Knit into the front of the resulting stitch.
M1L - Increase 1 by slipping needle into the bar between two stitches from front to back.
Knit into the back of the resulting stitch.


INSTRUCTIONS:

1: Cast on 28 stitches. Divide stitches onto 4 DPN’s so that Needles 1, 2, and 3 all have 8 stitches, and Needle 4 has 4 stitches. This negates the need for a stitch marker to mark the beginning of a row. Every time the needle with four stitches is knit, a row is completed.

2: Join stitches for knitting in the round, taking care not to twist the stitches. Knit it K2, P2 ribbing for 2.75”.

3: Knit 1 row plain.

4: K7, PM, M1L, K2, M1R, PM, knit to end of row.

5: K 2 rows.

6: K7, SM, M1L, K4, M1R, SM, knit to end of row.

7: K 2 rows.

8: K7, SM, M1L, K6, M1R, SM, knit to end of row.

9: K2 rows

10: K7, SM, M1L, K8, M1R, SM, knit to end of row.

11: K7, remove marker, place 10 stitches between markers on yarn scrap or stitch holder, cast on 2 stitches over the gap, remove second marker, K to end of row.

12: K2 P2 ribbing for four more rows.

13: Loosely bind off in pattern.

THUMB:

Place 10 stitches on holder onto three DPNs as follows: 4 stitches on Needle 1, 4 stitches on Needle 2, and 2 stiches on Needle 3. Pick up two stitches from the top of the hole for the thumb and place these on the end of Needle 3. Join in round and knit K2, P2 rib for two rows. Bind off loosely in pattern. Weave in ends, and make second mitt same as the first. Find some little hands that need warming up.

July 09, 2006

Off the Bobbins - Hand Dyed BFL

I finally got the chance to finish spinning the hand painted blue-faced-leicester that I dyed in class a few weeks ago. My goal for spinning this was to end up with a loosely twisted (this translates to "light and bouncy" in my mind) worsted-weight two-ply. So I split the roving in half, put the Lendrum's driveband on the largest whorl and got to spinning.

It was fun to watch the colors line up on the bobbin, but I started to get a little concerned about what would happen to the colors when the singles were plied. The colors all seemed to have the same value, and colorway names like "muddy", "murky", and "peat moss" all came to mind...

When the time came to ply my fears were confirmed. I watched the subtle, muted colors of the singles blend into what looked like a consistently muddy color on the bobbin:

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Which leads me to mention a couple things about WooLee Winders.

I bought my Lendrum double treadle wheel used, and it came with a used WooLee Winder. It appears to be a very old model of the Lendrum WooLee Winder -- from what I understand newer models for this wheel have three whorls and this one only has two.

So far, I have mixed feelings about this Woolee Winder. I should say up front that I think it is a very elegant tool and I can understand why folks that have them love them. I just think this older model has some issues that the current model most likely does not. In addition to its only having two speeds, I can't keep my orifice hook in the hole when I use it, which means I don't have anywhere to wind off my yarn when I need to pause while spinning. It also seems to make the wheel bounce about a bit, almost like it's slightly unbalanced. This doesn't affect the spinning at all, it just makes the spinning experience a little less smooth and meditative than it is when using the standard Lendrum flier. I'm guessing that newer-model Woolee Winders don't have these problems. Or they could be a problems specific to my wheel.

The WooLee Winder has a whole lot of plusses, too -- big ones. I rarely use mine while spinning, but I often use it for plying. It definitely makes things go faster, as you don't have to pause every minute or so to adjust the position of the guide. This is especially nice when navajo plying. The bobbins are larger than the standard Lendrum bobbin, and will usually accommodate all of the fiber from two 3/4 full Lendrum bobbins as was the case here. And it does indeed wind the bobbin smoothly with no peaks and valleys. This brings me to the specific reason I'm mentioning it in this post. I've discovered that when plying a multicolored roving, this smooth layering on the bobbin can obscure what the finished yarn really looks like. Basically it's similar to how winding a skein of multicolored yarn using a ball-winder will change how the yarn looks; the colors seem to combine differently, which can be a pleasing or not-so-pleasing effect depending on the colorway and the yarn. When spinning using a regular flyer (whether it uses a sliding guide or hooks to guide the yarn onto the bobbin) the yarn tends to pool up a bit to form peaks and valleys, unless you are particularly anal about moving the yarn guide consistently. (I am not so good about this.) As you can see in this picture, it will allow a multicolored yarn to pool sequentially. Since a lot of multicolor handspun yarns end up striping once knit, it gives you a general idea of how the striping sequence will occur, although when plied this effect may also change drastically. This sequential pooling does not show up when using the WooLee Winder.

So... the color of this yarn did not look so great to me during the plying process. I was a bit disappointed in the end result as it sat there on the Woolee Winder bobbin, looking muddy and murky... and a lot like the color of peat moss.

I also ended up with a lot more fiber on one bobbin than I had on the other. Never a desired result when making a two-ply. There was enough left on this bobbin that I didn't want to give up on it, so I tried something I'd been thinking about the last time this happened. Out came the handy dandy nostepinde:

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I wound the remainder of the second bobbin into a center-pull ball, then spliced the tail end to the loose end on the bobbin, and finished plying it (still in one piece) by spinning from both ends of the ball:

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(Please excuse the blurry pic, this was hard to do with only one hand free...)

This worked out swell -- the next time I have to do it I'll try to take better pictures to try to make up some kind of tutorial.

Once the yarn was wound off into a skein, my feelings about it did a 180. All of a sudden, I could see some variegation in the colors. It was subtle, but it was there. It's still a bit on the muddy and murky side, but I think I like it. Here's a closeup, showing my characteristically uneven spinning, but also showing a good view of how the different colors combine and change in the yarn.

I ended up with 123 yards at 8wpi. A little chunkier than I was shooting for, but not off by too far. It is nice and light and sproingy, though. I just love how soft and squishy BFL is. I don't know why I thought I'd get more yardage out of three ounces of roving, but I chalk my inability to estimate up to still being a novice spinner.

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I'm hoping that this yarn will show some subtle striping when knitted up, but my feelings about this yarn may make another 180 once I see what the knitted fabric looks like. I'm hesitant to swatch it as I'm worried that I don't have enough for the hat that I'm planning to make out of it. So I'll enjoy it in skein form for a little while longer, until I have the time to wind it into a muddy peat moss colored ball and get to knitting.

July 07, 2006

Outside In

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Click for right side.

Sometimes the inside looks so much more interesting than the outside. Regia Jubilee colorway 5471. One sock down, one to go...

Here's a preview of the latest fiber to come off the bobbins:

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Finished two-ply pics and info to come at a later date...

June 29, 2006

The Bombyx

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This is the red bombyx roving that I dyed up in class a few weeks ago. The top picture (A) is the roving skeined up, while (B) is the same roving spread out under artificial light. I love how the red sparkles in this picture -- it really looked like that even without the camera flash. It's amazing how the colors change with a little predrafting (C) but once spun up (D) the original color and intensity is evident once more.

The final skein (E) is 51 yds of 12wpi 2-ply; not bad for .7oz. I'm sure I could have gotten much better yardage if I'd spun the singles thinner, but with such a tiny amount I wanted to experiment to see what a chunkier silk two-ply would look like. The resulting yarn has such a wonderful feel to it; I can only imagine how slinky a scarf made from this would be. I have to say it was a lot harder to spin as a chunkier single, and I wasn't able to stay very consistent so this yarn has obvious thick and thin spots. The stuff definitely wants to be spun thin. It also catches on your clothes and on every dry spot on your hands while spinning. I want to play more with this fiber, so I got a few more ounces on sale at The Bellwether to dye up as soon as I get the chance.

June 20, 2006

Handspun hat

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This was made with this handspun yarn. White Berrocco Plush was used as trim. The pattern is my own and needs a little tweaking where the hat decreases, but I'm pleased with how this turned out. I love the view from the top:

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The handspun yarn made a squishy-soft fabric, and the Berrocco Plush is aptly named. So this should be super comfy and warm for the little person it's intended for. I have enough left to make one in a smaller newborn size, too. My cousin is having a baby girl this September; this hat is for her 2 year old daughter, and now the two girls can have matching hats for the winter.

June 15, 2006

Pleasant Surprise

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This is a skein of yarn that I spun on my wheel last year. It was an experiment on my part, rooted in a desire to have some fun with color during a dreary Seattle winter. I had recently purchased a bag full of several different colors of pre-dyed commercial wool roving and a set of hand cards. I wanted to see what would happen if I carded random bits and pieces of the roving together and spun it with no apparent plan in mind. The resulting singles were two-plied and ended up as the chunky-weight yarn you see above. My plan for this yarn was to make a baby jacket using the Minnowknits "Button Button" pattern -- a standby favorite of mine for babies and toddlers. I was all set to start knitting for a certain newborn when another pattern caught my eye and I decided to save this yarn for another day.

After a recent stash dive I rediscovered the yarn and could not stop thinking about it. I had to see what this stuff looked like knitted up. With only 230 yards total I decided to stick with the original plan, and cast on for Button Button.

This is where the pleasant surprise came in. Stripes!

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Click for closeup of fabric.

I certainly hadn't expected stripes, but I like them...

June 14, 2006

Off the Bobbins - Volume 1

Here are some recently-completed spinning projects:

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This is 2.4 ounces of 100% merino 64's purchased from eBay seller Split Rock Ranch in their "Bing Cherry" colorway. I spun this on my Lendrum DT wheel and ended up with about 125 yds of 12wpi thick-and-thin singles. I had not intended to spin this roving like that originally -- I had planned to shoot for a two-ply dk weight. But the fiber was slightly felted and I had a hard time drafting it -- and an even harder time staying semi-consistent. So I decided to go with the flow, and spun it the way it seemed to want to be spun. I'm pleasantly surprised with the result. It is very soft, and the colors are gorgeous. I've had a design idea for a child's hat in my head for the past few weeks, and I think I'm going to use this yarn for that project.

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This is around 2 ounces/130 yards of two-ply dk weight 80% merino 20% kid mohair. I spun this on my Emily spindle and have another two skeins of this put away that were finished earlier this year. All together there is 4 ounces total -- hopefully enough for a pair of socks which has been my plan for this fiber from the beginning. I should probably try knitting them toe-up just to be safe. I'm usually a cuff-down kinda gal so that should be a good learning experience.

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And last but not least, here is approx. 410 yards of laceweight Fairy Wonder Batt yarn. This is now in the process of becoming this -- more details to follow sometime in the future.

June 13, 2006

Dyeing to Spin

I took a "Hand Dyed Roving for Spinners" class at my LYS this past Saturday. The instructor taught us how to use acid dyes on protein fibers, and provided Lanaset/Sabraset dyes and some blue-faced leicester roving for use as lab materials.

The first method we learned was the dye bath method. While our rovings slowly simmered in a vinegar solution in pots heated via portable burners, the instructor taught us how to create the dye solutions and mix colors from several primaries. We started with lemon yellow, mustard yellow, royal blue, turquoise blue, magenta, scarlet, and black and spent some time individually mixing those solutions into the colors we each wanted to use.

The class was split into groups of three people per pot, and each person contributed one of their colors to the dye bath. In my group, the two women I was grouped with chose different shades of green -- a very dark forest green, and a much lighter green -- almost chartreuse. We waited 10 minutes before adding each subsequent color. We found that the dark green overtook the light green in the pot, and it looked as though there would not be room to add a third color. But we added a greenish blue that I had mixed up, and then for kicks tried adding in a bluish purple as well.

Our dye bath looked pretty murky indeed after that, and we all expected our roving to be a single, muddy green color at the end of the class. But we were pleasantly surprised with the result -- our roving was indeed mostly dark green, but it was a rich complex color and not the muddy color we had expected. There were lighter green highlights (although nowhere near as bright as the chartreuse dye that was added to the mix), and a few teal accents here and there. The purple was nowhere to be seen, but I suspect it added some variation to the dark greens that resulted. Each member of our group got to take home a third of the roving, which ended up being approximately one ounce per person. Here is what my portion looked like after drying and a little pre-drafting:

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And here it is after spinning:

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And here it is after navajo plying:

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I ended up with about 28 yards at 6wpi:

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I think the colors turned out so pretty. I can't do much with 28 yards, but I hope to try to dye a larger quantity with similar colors here at home so that I can spin up a usable quantity in this general color scheme.

The second dye method we learned was hand painting. Using our newly-mixed colors, we each spread rovings that had been soaked in a vinegar solution out on some plastic wrap, arranging the wet fiber in a zig-zag pattern. I had mixed up colors that I would describe as follows: dark brown, rust orange, slate blue, eggplant, and raspberry. I painted each color in small sections down the length of the fiber bundle. I had also purchased a small amount (0.7ounces) of bombyx silk top to play with, and I painted that in shades of red, orange, magenta, and black.

When everyone was done with their rovings, we wrapped them up in the plastic wrap and waited while each bundle spent some time in steamer pots outside the classroom. As each bundle was gingerly removed from the pots, its owner spent some time rinsing the fiber and spinning it out in a salad spinner to remove excess water. When everyone was done, we spread the rovings out and discussed our results. In many cases, folks ended up with much different results than they had expected. I was definitely in that category. Where I had expected muted colors of brown, dark purple, orange, and greyish-blue, I ended up with mostly greens, light puples, and some bronzes. The instructor thought perhaps I had not added enough vinegar to my solution, and that the brown that I had mixed had separated out into its component colors during steaming. So, I didn't get what I expected, but the results are growing on me:

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I can't wait to spin it up to see how it turns out. I'm thinking of shooting for a worsted-weight loosely twisted two-ply. I have three ounces of this -- possibly enough for a small project for a baby, or definitely enough for a hat or mittens.

My bombyx top, on the other hand, turned out exactly as I had expected, and I am quite pleased with the result:

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Now that I understand the process, I'm looking forward to dyeing my own custom rovings here at home. I love to be surprised with color, and I really want to experiment more in order to learn how to end up with the colors I'm expecting. I used my ten percent class discount to pick up the Sabraset dyes we used in the class. I need to hit some thrift stores to try to find a cheap and suitable dye pot/steamer and some of the other supplies that I need. It may be a while before I get the time, but my mind is already swimming with ideas and possibilities.

April 20, 2006

Fairy Wonder Batts

Husband (in droll tone): You got more yarn in the mail.

He hands the all-too-familiar plumped-up Kevlar envelope over.

Me (with smug smile): That’s not yarn.

A short period of stunned silence ensues.

Husband (a good minute later): What is it then?

How the heck do I say this. Really, how do I say this without cracking up?

Me (unable to suppress a crazy grin): Um.... Fairy Wonder Batts.

Husband (unable to tell if I'm kidding or not): Huh?

Fairy Wonder Batts. The name brings a smile to my face every time.

What is a Fairy Wonder Batt you ask? It is approximately 2.5 ounces of frothy, sparkly, silky-soft blended fibers including alpaca, kid mohair, tencel, silk, merino, blue face Leicester, corriedale, wensleydale, and a little bit of firestar and glitz. More accurately, it’s this:

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(Ashford spindle provided for scale)

and this:

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And this.

Lovely things. From the most excellent Winderwood Farm. I’ve never seen batts like this. Not that I’ve seen a lot of batts in my relatively short spinning career to compare them to. I don’t have a drum carder (sigh). But if I ever get a drumcarder, I want whatever did this. Someday. But I digress. Most of the batts that I have seen or spun have been reasonably thick, with a spongy texture. These beauties are almost like fabric, smooth and soft to the touch. A quick trial by spindle proved that they draft like a dream.

“Laceweight,” whispers the Fairy Wonder Batt.

“Okay,” I reply.

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April 19, 2006

Please, sir, can I have some more?

More of this, that is...

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This is a 50/50 blend of merino and tencel dyed by Chasing Rainbows Dyeworks in the Arroyo colorway. Two ounces to play with, so smooth and easy to spin. I don't have a picture of the finished yarn; as soon as it was plyed (two-ply) and blocked I gave it away in a spinning-related auction package I put together for a non-profit that I am involved with. I forgot to take a picture first (sigh). In retrospect, I should have left this as a singles yarn; the 2-ply muted the colors quite a bit. The color changes in the singles were so subtle and lovely, and the tencel gave the yarn a luminous sheen. After plying, the sage green color became the predominant color and kind of overpowered the other colors. This surprised me a little, as I thought the turquoise would have brightened it up more, but the effects achieved in a two-ply never fail to surprise me. The finished 2 ounce skein ended up DK weight (I think, I also forgot to check wpi before giving it away), and approximately 97 yards.

I really want to spin this stuff again, the different Chasing Rainbow colorways are stunning. Figuring out which colorways and fibers to choose will be the hard part -- I want to try them all!

April 10, 2006

Cast of Characters: The Emily Spindle

I learned to spin about three years ago on a drop spindle. I loved it from the start; spinning is so tactile and so soothing, and the icing on the cake is that it creates something that you can then use to make something else! It's the process, for sure.

A year later, I took a class to learn how to use a wheel. I was immediately enthralled. Compared to spinning on a spindle, a wheel seemed so much faster, so much easier, so much more soothing with the added rhythm of treadling and additional control over drafting. I bought a wheel during the class and it was a long while before I picked any of my spindles up again.

Over the past year, though, I find myself using my drop spindles more and more. It is so easy to just pick up a spindle and spin for a few minutes. I don't generally break out the wheel unless I have a decent amount of time -- at least 20 minutes, preferably more -- to devote to it, and those blocks of time have not been coming as often as I'd like lately.

Spindles are so great for sampling fiber, and for spinning up small amounts -- enough for socks, hats, mittens, scarves. I don't think I'll ever end up spinning a sweater's worth of wool on a spindle, but you never know. They are portable, easy to take up or down stairs, on a trip, or outside. They don't need to be oiled, there are no adjustments -- just pick 'em up and start spinning. Small stolen minutes spent drop spindling here and there can quickly add up to as much yarn as you might produce when spinning in one or two sessions on a wheel.

It amazes me how tools can be so much the same and so different. Every spindle (and every wheel for that matter) has the same basic parts; whorl, shaft hook. And yet they all spin and perform so differently. A spindle collection -- or any kind of collection, really -- is a true cast of characters.

Here is one of the characters in my collection. It is a purpleheart Emily top-whorl spindle by Adam Mielke, purchased from the Bellwether.


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This spindle weighs about 1.1 ounces, and is the most-used spindle in my collection. It has a long, non-wobbly spin, and can spin singles ranging from very fine laceweight to almost dk weight with no problems. The large whorl means it can hold a respectable amount of yarn, too, which makes it a great spindle for plying. This fiber in this picture is an 80% merino / 20% kid mohair blend in a rich teal color. The plan is to turn this yarn into a two-ply for a pair of socks.

April 07, 2006

Chocolatey Alpaca Goodness

A few months ago I went to a spin-in at my LYS and they had some new Alpaca fleece (blankets?) for sale. They had several different colors to tempt us with – white, grey, cinnamon, brown – all fluffy and soft and begging to be spun. I simply couldn’t resist, and ended up with a big bagful of some gorgeous dark reddish-brown fleece. Never having spun alpaca before, I asked one of the women who had already started spinning hers up for some tips. She said that the fiber, which was unprepared and unwashed, should not be washed prior to spinning, and that it could be carded or spun right from the locks.

Life intervened and I didn’t have much time for spinning over the next few months, but last week I was finally able to make some time to spin, and dove into my bag of alpaca. I spun up a small flick-carded handful on a drop spindle first, just to sample the fiber before getting out the wheel, and andean-plyed the result into a two-ply. The sample looked a little lifeless – the yarn was matte and had absolutely no luster. After a warm soapy bath and rinse it brightened up considerably, and I knit up a teeny tiny sample to see what the resulting fabric would look like:

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That got me all excited – this little square of alpaca had subtle auburn highlights and was oh-so-soft. Just right for a pair of fingerless mitts, so now I had an end project in mind. It seemed like a good idea to plan on spinning the alpaca into a three-ply yarn so that it would be more resilient for this purpose.

I decided not to spin right from the locks – while the fleece was very clean and fluffy, some of the pieces were clumped together and I did not want to flick card some pieces and not others. I decided to hand card the whole batch. It was a pleasure to do – the fiber was easy to card, did not tangle up despite my novice carding technique and brushed out with little effort. I ended up with two small baskets filled with fluffy, cocoa-colored clouds that looked like this:

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Then the spinning began. The alpaca rolags drafted effortlessly, but it was not the soft-on-the-hands dreamy spinning experience I expected. I mentioned earlier that the fleece was very clean – only a little dirt came out during the handcarding process, and there was absolutely no odor, wooly or otherwise. But there was something in the alpaca that caused it to feel tacky, almost sticky even, as I drafted it. I don’t know if this is the alpaca version of lanolin, but it didn’t really feel like spinning greasy wool. It almost felt like there was a film of clay on the stuff as the twist started to take hold. As I spun, whatever this was (oil? dirt? something I’d rather not know about?) came off on my fingers:

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It was an effort to get this stuff off my hands. Took a lot of rubbing with soap and warm water, and even after my hands were clean I could feel the residue. My hands didn’t feel soft like they do sometimes when spinning wool that isn’t super-clean. Again, there was that feeling of having a thin film of clay on them. It’s hard to describe, but there it is.

Here’s what I ended up with:

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The matte effect that I had seen on the drop spindle was really evident here -- it looked like the bobbin had been dusted with cocoa powder!

I didn’t get the chance to navajo ply the bobbin until a few days later. It was harder than I expected – the tackiness that I’d felt while spinning caused a good deal of friction when pulling the single through the chained loop. For the most part this wasn’t a problem, but it did cause me some grief as I got to the end of the bobbin. It turned out that while spinning I had started to add more and more twist to the single as I went along. It's a good thing I did this, because the yarn at the start of the bobbin had a lot less twist in it. This caused the single to break a lot while navajo plying. It’s not so much fun to deal with breakage while navajo plying, plus I probably lost a good five yards to this mistake.

It took three dunks in a warm soapy bath to clean up the finished yarn, but here it is:

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I ended up with approximately 81 yards. Not enough for the intended project – I had hoped to have enough for adult-sized fingerless mitts. But my little guy needs a pair for next fall so I’ll stick with the plan, just reduced in size.

What I learned from this spinning experience:

1: Alpaca is a delight to hand card.

2: For shorter-staple fibers like this, it seems there is a fine line between adding enough twist to withstand the rigors of navajo plying, and not adding enough. I haven’t figured out where this line is yet.

3: I really need to practice Navajo plying more – these joins look plain awful!

badjoins.jpg

4: It is very difficult to spin a consistent-width singles yarn from a carded alpaca rolag. Either that, or I need more practice. (All right, I know I need more practice.)

5: Next time, BUY MORE ALPACA! My seemingly huge herkin’ bag only netted me a grand total of 81 yards of three-ply approximately-worsted-weight:

040506alpaca2.jpg

Sigh. It’s not the prettiest skein I’ve ever spun, but I think the knitted fabric will look fine. I have another bag of some whitish-grey alpaca to try out next time, so hopefully the lessons learned while spinning this will help me to get better results next time. Stay tuned.